I was given two donkeys November 10, 2009. They are both intact males, and are about 7 and 10 years old. They were kept by the previous owners for guarding sheep from coyotes, but apparently they were afraid of coyotes and didn't much like sheep.
We have 18 acres of tall clover about 5 miles out of town. The land is flood irrigated, and we have water but no power there. We made them a makeshift loafing shed out of a chain link dog kennel and tarps. I've had horses before, but never donkeys. They have never had halters on them, and although they have never been mistreated, they were very standoffish at first.
Their hoofs really need trimming bad, so the main goal of my training is to get them to a point where a farrier can trim them. At this point I haven't introduced the clicker yet, but that is next. I go out to the place twice a day and break ice and refresh their water. I have dishes for each of them, and put a little 'Select Horse Feed' in each dish. At this point, three weeks into it, they come up to me most of the time when I go out there. They are definitely food motivated. They let me scratch them on the neck.
This evening or tomorrow, I'm going to start associating the clicker with treats. Now I have no way of separating them for training, so I am going to have to teach them their names and use them a lot when training. I am definitely open to ANY suggestions from people who know more about clicker training than I do.
I'm new to clicker training, but I have donkeys :)
HI, I think that is an awesome Idea to start clicker training your new donks. Most donks are very food motivated, and they're extremely so clicker training will fit right in. I personally have one pretty broke donkey - can saddle, get on her etc. But my new donk is young & hasn't been handled much. Today I tried clicker training with hera and had HUGE success. I went from barely being able to pet down to her knees on the front legs to picking up one hoof today! thats HUGE for her!!
I'd almost suggest using the clicker to 'unstick' them. Donkeys get to the point where they want to do everything on their terms, having the clicker makes them go 'ok, maybe we'll try it your way' use the clicker to get them to understand that you want more. lol. Its kinda hard for me to explain since i'm so new to clicker training Basically when i got to a spot where martha was uncomfortable i knew that was my 'goal' area. to click when she would allow me to be in that area - they actually move pretty fast at times. I went from ( all in about ten min today) touching the leg, to hold the leg at the knee, to holding a foot.
once the donks understand that if they're good and stand still & don't fight anything they'll get their click. just be patient, don't get upset, always end on a good note ( go back to something you know they can do).
I'd suggest bringing the halter out, sniff - click, repeat until they are not afraid of it being held around them, their faces. then move on to touch them with the halter - click ( remember only clicking when they're standing quietly - no nipping, fidgeting, walking away etc.)
you said you can touch them on the neck thats good. i would say after they allow you to approach & touch them with the halter you can either 'act' like you're going to put it on, ie standing like you would with your arm over their neck and the halter opened up. or you can try just getting them to accept having the noseband slid onto their face. when you get to that point where you can bring the halter all the way on, don't tie it, but stand there ( basically don't trap them the first moment you get) donks take time, but once they get it and are not afraid they're good as gold. eventually you'll get to the point where you can tie it on. then comes leading.
anyways you get the idea, introduce stuff slowly, always reward for the smallest amount of try in the right direction. you'll get their eventually. you might be suprised that they catch on rather quickly! I learned that today. good luck. ( i also have a blog about my donks if you're interested).
thanks.
I would also suggest getting them gelded - that will make them easier to handle ( but the vet has to know they have a larger blood supply down there ( than a horse) - they need extra steps to ensure they dont bleed to death!)